Should conclusive evidence emerge, Sandy Irvine and Mallory could be credited with the first successful ascent of Everest’s north face, preceding the Chinese team’s 1960 climb.
Britain – The remains of British mountaineer Andrew Sandy Irvine, who vanished nearly 100 years ago while attempting to scale Mount Everest, have been discovered.
Irvine, along with fellow climber George Mallory, disappeared in 1924 while trying to reach the 29,032ft summit of the world’s tallest peak. The discovery has reignited the mystery of whether the duo may have reached the summit 30 years before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent in 1953.
The partial remains, along with a boot and a sock embroidered with Irvine’s name, were found on the Central Rongbuk Glacier, 7,000 feet lower than where Mallory’s body was discovered in 1999. The find was made by an expedition filming a documentary for National Geographic, led by filmmakers Erich Roepke, Mark Fisher, and climber Jimmy Chin. DNA tests are set to confirm the identity of the remains.
Chin described the moment as “monumental and emotional,” saying, “Sometimes in life, the greatest discoveries occur when you aren’t even looking.”
Mallory’s body, found at a higher altitude, was well-preserved due to the extreme cold. He was discovered with injuries consistent with a fall while roped to Irvine. Crucially, Mallory did not have the photograph of his wife, Ruth, which he had intended to place at the summit, fueling speculation that the pair may have succeeded in reaching the top before their deaths.
Julie Summers, Irvine’s great-niece and biographer, expressed deep emotion at the discovery. “I have lived with this story since I was a seven-year-old when my father told us about the mystery of Uncle Sandy on Everest,” she said, adding that she was moved to tears upon hearing the news.
It is believed that Irvine was carrying a camera that could hold evidence of whether the men reached the summit. However, the camera was not found during the recent expedition.
Should conclusive evidence emerge, Irvine and Mallory could be credited with the first successful ascent of Everest’s north face, preceding the Chinese team’s 1960 climb.
Prof Joe Smith, director of the Royal Geographical Society, praised Irvine’s contributions to the exploration of Everest and the Himalayas, calling him “an exceptional figure.”
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